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Weekly Watch Photo – IWC Big Pilot’s Watch

Weekly Watch Photo – IWC Big Pilot’s Watch is a post from: Monochrome.nl

IWC totally understands how to promote their watches. I think they’ve been looking closely at what watch fans have been doing at forums and what Monochrome also does once a week… sharing beautiful photos of beautiful watches.

For the launch of the new Pilot’s watch collection, IWC created a set of very cool photos of their newest timepieces. We already showed you photos of the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Miramar and the Pilot’s Watch Mark XVII. Today we show you the Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5009 and the Top Gun and Top Gun Miramar Editions.

When IWC released the first Big Pilot’s Watch (ref. 5002) in 2002 it was, together with Panerai, THE watch that changed the fashion of the watch world from what we call now-a-days ‘medium-size’ to BIG. In those days, any watch larger that 40/41 mm in diameter was considered large. I still recall people saying my TAG Heuer Monaco (square case, 38 x 38 mm) being very big. Imagine how much the perception about size has changed over the past 10 years!

The first Big Pilot’s watch (ref. 5002) had quite a military look, all the way down to the brown calfskin strap with with rivets. The size of 46 mm in diameter and the large diamond-shaped crown are clearly referring to pilot’s watches from the 1940′s.

The original pilot’s watches from the 1940′s has large pocket watch movements and IWC also opted for a large movement for the Big Pilot’s Watch. A movement with a small diameter would look silly in such a large case. The movement of choice was a 7-day movement with Pellaton automatic winding and power reserve display.

The first Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002 featured a slow beat movement that ticked at 18,000 beat per hour, while the later ref. 5004 (and several hundreds of transitional models) featured a movement with 21,600 beats per hour.

According to many collectors ref. 5002 had more of a military look than the following version ref. 5004. Personally I prefer that later versions of this defining watch, like the new ref. 5009 and other variations IWC released at the SIHH 2012.

Matching with another novelty is the Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Miramar, featuring an even larger case, measuring 48 mm in diameter, made of black ceramic. The hands and chapter ring are executed in beige and it comes on a green textile strap that was inspired by the color and material used by the military.

Mechanical movement with Pellaton automatic winding:

  • 7-day power reserve when fully wound
  • Date display
  • Power reserve display
  • Central hacking seconds
  • Glucydur beryllium alloy balance with high-precision adjustment cam on balance arms
  • Breguet spring

All these Big Pilot’s Watches have a soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields, a screw-in crown, convex sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating on both sides and the crystal is secured against displacement by drop in air pressure. The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch is water-resistant to 6 bar and measures 16 mm in height. The diameter of ref. 5009 (stainless steel version) is 46 mm, both ceramic version (Top Gun and Top Gun Miramar) measure 48 mm in diameter.

The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun shares its dimensions and ceramic case with the fore-mentioned Top Gun Miramar. It also has a textile strap, however not green but black.

The stainless steel version with black alligator strap with rivets, is still my favorite and I hope to be able to add it to my collection some day. A classic and for the current watch fashion, a defining watch.

See all models of the IWC Pilot’s Collection here.

This article was written by Frank Geelen, executive editor of Monochrome Watches.

 

Related posts:

  1. Pre-SIHH 2012 – new IWC Pilot Watch TOP GUN Collection and much more news
  2. Weekly Watch Photo – IWC Ingenieur Laureus
  3. Weekly Watch photo – IWC Ingenieur ref. 3227

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Dubey & Schaldenbrand Grand Dome Watch Hands-On

Dubey and Schaldenbrand Grand Dome watch 1 Dubey & Schaldenbrand Grand Dome Watch Hands On

Swiss watch brand Dubey & Schaldenbrand is back after a slight hiatus and some internal reorganization. Their US distribution is also brand new. The newly livened Dubey & Schalden-brand (get it?) features three new models including this pretty Grand Dome collection. Set in a tonneau style case, this is the result of a lot of internal work in-house.

While some brands stress the production of their own movements, it is sort of the reverse at Dubey & Schaldenbrand right now. At Dubey, they make their own cases, dials and hands. While they produce some modules and decorate and finish movements – right now they mostly use base ETA movements. The production of their cases and dials is really a plus for them and collectors. This means that they have a lot of control and flexibility in their designs and parts – which benefits everyone.

Dubey and Schaldenbrand Grand Dome watch 9 Dubey & Schaldenbrand Grand Dome Watch Hands On

Dubey and Schaldenbrand Grand Dome watch 11 Dubey & Schaldenbrand Grand Dome Watch Hands On

The Grand Dome models come in steel or gold (or two-tone) cases. Size is 37mm wide by 52mm tall. I wouldn’t call it large, but it isn’t a small watch either. On the wrist, tonneau-shaped watches look interesting, but it is a look that you need to try on your wrist to get a feel for. The case is all polished and feels good to the touch. Quality is there and the design is classic and attractive in my opinion.

Dial designs are quite interesting. You can see that the layout of the 7751 has been reduced to make the display symmetrical. There are a few different dial displays – and each is both three dimensional and attractive. One version has a more retro dial that will appeal to some people as well. By the way, the watch is technically called the Grand Dome DT. Not sure what that DT stands for. Hmm. Most of the dials really excite me. They are really well done and I like the finishing, detailing, and the hands.

Dubey and Schaldenbrand Grand Dome watch 7 Dubey & Schaldenbrand Grand Dome Watch Hands On

Dubey and Schaldenbrand Grand Dome watch 12 Dubey & Schaldenbrand Grand Dome Watch Hands On

The simple act of removing the subsidiary seconds dial mixed with the synchronized 24 hour hand on the left really cleans up the dial a lot. You are still left with more or less all the functions that you need. If you want to measure the seconds you can just use the chronograph. The 7751 functions that remain are the 12 hour chronograph, time, moon phase indicator, and annual calendar. What I also like is how Dubey shrank the peripheral date ring. The 7751 uses a large hand to indicate the date around the periphery of the dial. Frankly I am not a fan of this the majority of the time. Here, the Grand Dome uses a shorter hand and smaller ring to display the date in a much more attractive manner. Textures and colors are great overall.

Dubey and Schaldenbrand Grand Dome watch 10 Dubey & Schaldenbrand Grand Dome Watch Hands On

Dubey and Schaldenbrand Grand Dome watch 6 Dubey & Schaldenbrand Grand Dome Watch Hands On

According to Dubey & Schaldenbrand, the movement finishing and decoration is done in-house. As you can see, on one limited edition model of the Grand Dome there is a lot of hand engraving and decor on the automatic rotor as well as on a movement bridge. It looks quite nice. This is another one of those instances where a brand is able to take something common like a 7750/7751 base and make it look really nice using a lot of their own in-house talent and effort. It goes without saying that the movements are visible through a rear-mounted sapphire caseback window.

Dubey and Schaldenbrand Grand Dome watch 15 Dubey & Schaldenbrand Grand Dome Watch Hands On

What I said to Dubey & Schaldenbrand is that the Grand Dome watches have a distinct look but also feel acceptably traditional. That means they look unique but are also not outside the range of “I can visualize myself wearing that because it is a look I am familiar with”. There is a lot of cool stuff coming from the brand – and even a new tourbillon for 2012. The brand wants to offer nice stuff at a mid to higher-range luxury price point. Even the Grand Dome models come in versions with diamonds (also ladies pieces). Prices start at $11,300, jump up to about $15,000, then up to around $30,000, and then top out at $75,850.

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Written by Mr. Ariel Adams – aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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The Heuer Digital Era

Collectors often reflect on the 1970s as being the most dynamic decade in Heuer’s history, a case that’s easy to mount when you look at the combination of the ground-breaking Chronomatic movement and a roll-call of famous names-? Monaco, Carrera, Autavia, Silverstone and Montreal, to name but a few. The other reason that the 1970s stands out is that at the same time as Heuer was developing innovative mechanical chronographs, it was also at the forefront of high-precision digital quartz technology. Pin It The interest in electronics was very much driven by Jack …

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Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref 2523 Worldtime Sells for 990,000 CHF

Clearly the highlight of Antiquorum’s Geneva auction of May 13, 2012, the Patek Philippe World Time (Ref. 2523) with guilloche gold center you see here hammered for an impressive 990,000 CHF (about $1.05 million at current f/x).? The extremely fine and extremely rare Patek Philippe watch was made in 1953 and sold on October 10, 1956 by famed French Patek retailer Jean Guillermin.? The watch remained in the original owner’s family until being offered at auction last week.? As you can see from the close-up photos below, the piece remained in amazing unpolished condition for 55 years.? In particular note the sharp and well defined lugs and the deep and clearly visible hallmarks (see photos below for more info).? The piece was overhauled by Patek in May 2011 under very specific instruction from the owner that the watch should only have the movement serviced to ensure good timekeeping but to leave the case in its original untouched condition. ? An amazing Patek Philippe and collector’s piece!? Read on for more details and photos.

Patek Philippe Ref 2523 Worldtime

sold at auction for 990,000 CHF (Antiquorum May 13, 2012)

“World Time”, 36mm 18K yellow gold case with two crowns and guilloche dial with an 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle

The lugs still exhibit their sharp definition and angles as they would have had upon original sale in 1956:

 

The hallmark on the left is on the lug;? on the right we see the caseback hallmarks:? two owls representing the gold importation hallmark for 18k and “JG”, denoting Jean Guillermin, the famed French Patek Philippe retailer:

According to Antiquorum’s research, there has only ever been one other yellow gold 2523 with gold guilloche center bearing the movement number 722700 (only 2 numbers from this example) sold at Antiquorum (lot 410, 15th December 1990).? This leads them to further conclude that the gold Guilloche center examples are the rarest, found less often than both the cloisonne and regular silver dial versions.

 

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David Yurman Revolution Shelby 1000 Limited Edition Watch

David Yurman Revolution Shelby watch 1 David Yurman Revolution Shelby 1000 Limited Edition Watch

American automotive legend Carroll Shelby passed away recently. He worked up until the end of his life and helped changed the face of what was cool in American automobiles. He is most well-known for his long partnership with Ford producing many versions of the Shelby Mustang, as well as the famous Shelby Cobra car. Just before he died, Shelby American released a new version of the Shelby Mustang called the Shelby 1000. It is meant to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the company, and has 1,100hp. So where does that 1000 number come from? I really don’t know.

Shelby partnered with David Yurman for a special limited edition version of their Revolution sport watch called the David Yurman Revolution Shelby 1000 Limited Edition. Actually there are two versions of the watch. One is strictly limited, and the other will have a “limited production.” The cool watch gracefully embodies the spirit of the Cobra and the famous sport’s mark marque. Other brands such as MARCH LA.B have worked with Shelby before. This one however is specially made for the Shelby 1000 and the 50th anniversary of the car maker. At the same time it can live alone as a cool Shelby Cobra themed chronograph.

shelby 1000 David Yurman Revolution Shelby 1000 Limited Edition Watch

Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 David Yurman Revolution Shelby 1000 Limited Edition Watch

The already handsome David Yurman Revolution received a few impressive modifications for this limited edition piece. Wait a minute, since when does David Yurman make cool sport watches? Well as of recently I guess. The long time watch maker has seemingly gotten more involved with sport watches and this is proof they more or less know what they are doing. I guess that means David Yurman is back on the list of brands to watch.

The Revolution Shelby 1000 watch is 43.5mm wide in steel. The limited edition version is in black vulcanized rubber coated steel. The normal version has some rubber elements with a brushed steel case. The bezel has a tachymeter (of course), and the sides of the case are black on both models. I really like how the chronograph pushers are integrated into the design to look like crown guards. I have always had a weakness for this design style.

David Yurman Revolution Shelby watch dial 1 David Yurman Revolution Shelby 1000 Limited Edition Watch

1967 shelby cobra David Yurman Revolution Shelby 1000 Limited Edition Watch

On the dial are the signature Shelby double racing stripes and of course the cobra. It just isn’t Shelby without the cobra figurine. While I typically don’t like shared dial branding, I think the David Yurman and Shelby names co-exist in a reasonable way on the dial. As an American car lover, it is pretty sweet. Cooler still is the strap. Now that is a clever piece of design. David Yurman continued the look of the cobra snake body into the rubber strap. How sweet is that? I really like this design element a lot actually – even though on paper it could sound cheesy.

Inside the watch is a Swiss ETA Valjoux 7753 automatic chronograph movement. On the back of the case is Carroll Shelby’s signature (no he didn’t sign each one). The 12 hour register was removed on the dial to offer a cleaner bi-compax chronograph layout. It works for the design, and I appreciate the instrumental design of the chronograph subdials.

David Yurman Revolution Shelby watch 2 David Yurman Revolution Shelby 1000 Limited Edition Watch

Coated in black rubber the David Yurman Shelby 1000 watch will be limited to 150 pieces and be priced at $8,600. The steel version that is not limited to a specific production amount (will likely be make for a year or so before production ends), will be priced at $7,200. Seems like a rather large price gap between the two right? The watches are very cool and look for availability in November 2012.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams – aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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  4. Bremont HMS Victory Limited Edition Watch
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Watch

Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph copy 4 Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Watch

Jaeger-LeCoultre has been riding a wave of high praise in the wake of their SIHH announcements of vintage-inspired watches, such as the Tribute to Memovox Deep Sea of 2011 and the Tribute to Deep Sea Chronograph from earlier this year. While we like tributes as much as the next guy, we really like it when a watch manufacturer, especially one as well-regarded as JLC, can dig deep and create something that stands on its own. Case in point, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph, a more modern and practical variation of the winning formula that gave birth to the Tribute to Deep Sea Chronograph.

2 Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Watch

Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph copyright S Ciejka 2 Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Watch

This 42mm dive-ready chronograph features a number of changes over the 40.5 mm Tribute design we saw earlier this year. The vintage lume has thankfully been replaced with crisp white SuperLumiNova, the two register display has been upgraded to to a trio of matched sub dials and the fixed bezel of the vintage-inspired model has been swapped out in favor of an ISO 6425 compliant unidirectional rotating bezel. I find the overall design is reminiscent of the Omega Speedmaster, but that is likely due to its largely monochrome color scheme and piston-style pushers. I am a huge fan of dressy divers so it is of little surprise that I think this new JLC looks great and that I really appreciate a style that makes as much sense while out for dinner as it does while diving.

Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph macro1 Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Watch

The dial is nicely proportioned and features appropriately sized hands and markers, which should prove to be legible in a variety of conditions. The subdial at three (a 30 minute totalizer) and nine (a 12 hour totalizator) oddly remind me of the gauges seen in old Ford Mustangs and I really like the long hands and almost Bauhaus font used for the numbering. While this is a more modern style than the Tribute version of the Deep Sea, it is still a classic and rather reserved interpretation of the dive chronograph, especially for JLC. I suppose Jaeger-LeCoultre contrasts designs like the Deep Sea Chronograph with the more raucous and complex styling seen in parts of the AMVOX and Master Compressor lines (illustrated below).

JLC comp Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Watch

A balanced and reserved style is actually not the Deep Sea Chronograph’s only notable attribute. Just take a closer look at the photos. Below the “Jaeger-LeCoultre” on the dial, there is a small aperture which has three phases depending on the current status of the chronograph – be it idle, running, or paused. When idle, the aperture shows an inconspicuous white circle but this will transition to being white and red while the chronograph is running and a solid red when the measure is paused. Jaeger-LeCoultre calls this a “chronograph operation indicator” and it is essentially a way for a diver to be able to quickly verify that the chronograph is running and timing their dive (or in my case, more likely a French press). I like the simple and crisp white of the idle phase but LOVE the white/red of the running phase, which has no doubt been designed to be reminiscent of a diving flag.

Deep Sea Chronograph diving with modern equipment 2 copyright S Ciejka Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Watch

This is an example of simple but thoughtful design which adds a touch of cool to this luxury 100m dive chronograph but manages to do so without compromising its understated aesthetic. I love a complication that is simultaneously cool enough to show your watch nerd buddies and yet nearly invisible to the horologically untrained eye. That said, if I were fortunate enough to own such a watch, it would likely only ever get wet if I fell into a pool, as I don’t posses the fortitude to actually take such a watch diving. As capable as this ten thousand dollar dive chronograph may be, it would certainly only see desk-dive use under my care.

Deep Sea Chronographe diving 6 copyright Emmanuel Donhut Balao Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Watch

Under the matte black dial beats the Jaeger-LeCoultre in-house calibre 758 which is a 47 jewel automatic movement featuring a 65 hour power reserve. The Deep Sea Chronograph appears to be the only JLC that features this movement and specific style of chronograph operation indicator. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Geographic Navy Seals features a similar aperture, but it is used as an am/pm indicator as opposed to a chronograph operation indicator.

Deep Sea Chronograph diving with modern equipment 3 copyright S Ciejka Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Watch

Deep Sea Chronographe diving 1 copyright Emmanuel Donhut Balao Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Watch

This version of the Deep Sea Chronograph does a lot that I love, it forgoes the Tribute vibe but instead makes for a more compelling and likely more timeless design as its not so heavily anchored in the past or reflective of the current trends. It would have been nice for buyers to at least have the option of a bracelet, although one could argue that a bracelet should be included, given the price tag of $10, 800 USD. Considering Jaeger-LeCoultre’s stance as a top tier manufacture, the Deep Sea Chronograph is a fitting addition to their line up that combines everyday wearability with a dive-ready and practical feature set. What’s not to like?

[Editor's note: Nice restrained design all around making for a good daily wear. Shows the flexibility of the JLC brand offering modern and vintage inspired watches with ease. Though, pictures of a vintage inspired watch on a super-modern diver are ironic, to say the least. Let's wear this watch couch surfing instead.]

Written by James Stacey

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  3. Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge Watch
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Prototype Zenith El Primero Bought By Zenith For 37,500 CHF At Christie’s

Of all the stunning lots in this week’s Christie’s sale in Geneva, one that particularly caught our eye, and the eye of some serious watch collectors, was a mythical prototype Zenith El Primero. This watch was one of 25 prototypes, of which an unknown number survive to this day. Turns out that interest in the watch ran beyond the typical collector, with Zenith themselves getting right in the thick of bidding. 

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso with Red Lacquered Dial fetches record price

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso with Red Lacquered Dial fetches record price is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Jaeger-LeCoultre watches hit record prices at Antiquorum auction in Geneva, that was held last week. One that particularly tickled us, is the stainless steel Reverso with red lacquer dial. It was sold for CHF 50,000 !! 

This Reverso with red lacquered dial is the predecessor of this years JLC novelty, the new Grande Reverso Tribute to 1931 Rouge. Last year the French auction house Artcurial sold a Reverso with red lacquered dial for € 28,000 Euro and another was sold for CHF 35,000 in May last year by Antoquorum.

It looks like vintage models of the JLC Reverso are seriously gaining value and I’m curious whether this rise is lasting. Of course vintage Rolex Sports models and Patek Philippe complicated watches are a sure thing for fetching extreme high prices. This seems quite restricted to these brands, like the same Antiquorum auction in Geneva proved.

At that same auction various vintage Audemars Piguet Royal Oak models didn’t beat the record price Alain Delon’s vintage Royal Oak ref. 5402 fetched. Many collectors had expected that the very rare A-series would be sold for a record prices and they hoped other vintage Royal Oaks to fetch very high prices. Maybe the prices weren’t that high, they were still very good, considering the hype around this model is relatively young. At In2watches you can check most prices.

Over the next few years we will learn if more brands join Rolex and Patek Philippe as record setting watch brands and even great investments. Until than it remains guessing and hoping, although the prices that the vintage Reverso’s with a red lacquered dial fetched at recent auctions is already high and still climbing.

This article is written by Frank Geelen, executive editor of Monochrome Watches.

Related posts:

  1. Vintage Reverso Blue Dial sells for 48,200 Euro at Jaeger-LeCoultre Auction
  2. Record price for Heuer Monaco and Rolex Submariner ref. 5512
  3. The Auction Hammer – Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Art Deco

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Upcoming Christie’s Auction Will Put Not One, But Eight Harry Winston Opus Watches On The Block

On Wednesday, May 30th Christie’s will be holding their Important Watches auction in Hong Kong. Many rare watches will be making an appearance from the likes of Patek Philippe, Rolex and Audemars Piguet. Included among them will be Harry Winston’s Opus watches, and not just one or two, but eight of them. Opus 1 thru 7, along with 9 will all hit the block that Wednesday evening, providing collectors a chance at two thirds of the entire Opus collection.

Read on for the full breakdown.

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